Getting Started in MotorSport

So you want to race?

I will attempt here to describe what you must do in order to get started in motorsport in the UK, how to go about it, and who to contact, and what the pitfalls are. All of this will be based on my own racing experiences, as well as my time working at the SRIS (Scott Racing & Imágika Sports) team, and should be equally applicable to many different championships.

This is not the only place on the internet that you can read this kind of information (try the MSA for a start), but I get a lot of e-mail enquiries about starting racing, so this is a first step towards answering some of those questions.

So to set yourself up to race, you will need...

What will it all cost?

First of all, let's destroy the myths. Motorsport is NOT cheap. Do not let anyone tell you it is, unless they are talking about grass track oval bangers or something. Sure, they will let you out on the track in a beat up old Fiesta that cost you 150 quid to buy, and 350 quid to put a cage and fire extinguisher in, but let's be honest for once, that car will never be racing anyone - except possibly the marshalls after they have finished packing up to go home!

So what does it really cost? Well, unfortunately, there is no hard and fast rule. How much do you want to spend? There are some things you cannot do without, others you can.

  • Race licence around 250 quid, one off cost.
  • Race gear, 200 quid minimum, one off cost.
  • Race licence renewal 50 quid per year.
  • Club fees, 30 quid or so per year.
  • Entry fees, 1500 quid a year if you do all the races.
  • Running costs, fuel, tyres, repairs, improvements. Costs will vary.
  • The car. Ready built 2500+. Build your own, 1500 to the sky is the limit!
  • Trailer. 250+
  • Testing?, optional, and costs vary depending on circuit. 100-200 quid per day.
  • Tuition?, never had any, no idea what it costs. Probably a lot.
  • Accomodation? Tent? motorhome? B&B? Hotel? Mates house? Costs will vary.
As a guideline, for Stock Hatch, it cost me around 3000 to buy my first car, 600 to get setup (helmet, overalls, trailer, tools, petrol carriers etc), and then around 3000 to run the car for most of the season, including tyres, repairs, running costs etc. This means I had spent just over 4000 pounds by the time I pulled on to the grid for the first time, and that can be a daunting prospect. You must be prepared for the potential risk that you get that far, and then destroy the car at the first corner. It is rare, but it does happen.

The second season, I used the same car, improved it a bit, and it cost me about 3500 to run it for the year. The following year I built a new car, and it cost me 6500 by the time it took to the grid for the first time, but at least I got some of that back from selling the previous car. Some people do it for less, if they have contacts, or they have enough spares lying around to not have to buy any, or they find a good second hand outlet, and similarly some people I know spend more.

Where to buy stuff. There are of course lots of companies that deal in race equipment of one kind or another, but the beginner could do a lot worse than start at Demon Tweeks (01978 664466) for a single one stop shop selling it all. It can sometimes be cheaper to deal with manufacturers directly, but this can mean a lot of extra calls, and paying delivery many times over, and there is a discount for registered Stock Hatch competitors at Demon Tweeks which makes up for the price difference anyway.

Licenced to thrill

So, now you will need a race licence. Follow these steps to get one.....
  • Contact the MSA (01753 765000) for a 'Go Racing' pack which costs around 40 quid, and contains the application form you need, and instructions on how to pass the test, and a video, and the all important 'blue book' - the rule book for UK motor racing. Any championship regulations you later read will refer to this rule book.
  • Get an eye test, you need the prescription (even if you don't need glasses) on the medical form.
  • Get a medical, your GP may charge you around 70 quid to check your sanity, and he fills in your medical part of the race licence application.
  • Contact your nearest race circuit and book an 'ARDS' test. The test is half a day tops, and costs around 130 quid. It consists of a few simple multiguess questions - learn the flags thoroughly, and read about fire extinguishers, and helmets, and use your common sense, and then a driving test on the track. These instructors see loads of drivers, so DO NOT expect to impress them with your neat power slide. Instead, keep it smooth, safe and moderately swift, but not on the edge. They are checking you are SAFE to be let loose among a bunch of other drivers in a tightly packed grid. They are NOT talent scouts looking for the next Schumacher.
  • Send off the form now completed by the ARDS instructor (he may send it for you), and your licence turns up a couple of weeks later.

Getting into gear

 Buying race gear is mostly personal preference, and budget dependant. However, a few bits of advice never hurt.

Read the blue book thoroughly on helmet standards, as you can often get what looks like a good deal on a helmet only to find that it will no longer be acceptable for use the following year. If you buy a helmet from a racing outlet, it may well already have the relevant certification sticker for racing. If you buy from another source, it may not, although it must have the relevant BS standard on it still (or equivalent). You will be able to get the racing approval sticker at your first race from the scrutineers for the sum of one pound.

Although 'Proban' suits may be permitted in some championships, do yourself a favour and get a proper 3 layer Nomex suit. Some things are NOT worth scrooging on. Gloves are optional, but frowned upon if not used. So are race boots. I did not use boots for the first two years.

The Championship

Before you can even think about getting the car, you need to have chosen a championship. Most club level racing is covered in news roundups in Motoring News, and Autosport. See in there what takes your fancy. Talk to the organising club. They are usually fairly honest, but keen to attract new members. If you think you have decided what championship, take the time to go to a race meeting for that championship. I did not do this, but I WOULD recommend it. Club racing is a free for all, so you can go and mix with the drivers, look around the cars, talk to them about the championship, and their own experiences of cost and see how it all works. It will help in the long run.

Once you are sure, sign up with the club, and register for the championship. You should get a full set of the championship rules.

Getting a race car

Now you need a car. There are basically three options to consider here. First, you could hire a car. This saves you having to buy and maintain the car yourself, costs quite a lot per race, but does not tie you down. Second you buy a used car that is ready to race, or finally you could build the car yourself.....

Renting a car

Renting a car allows you to get racing quicker and cheaper than any other route. In the long run of course it might cost more than doing it yourself, but that depends on how good a mechanic your are, and how often your cars gets damaged, so you have to weigh the cost up against all the long hours in the garage at home. My advice for hiring a car must of course be to talk to SGR Engineering. They have a number of different cars available for hire on anything from a hire only package to a fully supported hire drive package.

The used car route

Buying any used car is about keeping your eyes open. Do not assume that just because a car has race numbers on it that it is the best car you could ever buy for the money. Take a GOOD look at it. In Stock Hatch you may be buying a car that is 15 plus years old. Bear that in mind as you look at it thoroughly. Race cars also get dented occasionally, look at the structural parts and load bearing parts to ensure they are intact or properly repaired.

Buying a good used race car is all about research. Look at past results for the championship, and try to buy a car that has been successful before. Any seller worth his salt will be able to show you result sheets from the previous year, but try asking other competitors what they think of the car. Get the owner to talk you through the modifications, talk about setups. If you can arrange it, take a test drive on a circuit. No road test drive will ever tell you anything. Believe me. At the track, get the previous driver to demonstate that the car is still as fast as it was when it was successful. If you are new to racing, but you know anyone who already races, see if you can get them to drive it for you for unbiased opinions.

You can of course buy unproven cars, part built cars, or cars that have never yet been successful, but expect to pay less, and expect to have to work at making it successful. The less well prepared a car is when you buy it, the more like building your own car the job becomes.

Whatever you buy, take the time to check it against the rules. It is YOUR responsibility that it complies with the rules. The club will be able to tell you of any rules which were different the previous year.

If you are new to racing, you will need a 'novice' badge. A large yellow square with a black diagonal cross through it for the back of your car.

The DIY route

This is perhaps the most satisfying way to get a race car, but it is full of pitfalls. Start by talking to people. As many people as possible. Pick up information from any place you can. Try asking the club for contact details of other people who may have built this type of car, or may be local to you. Look at magazine articles to see if there are similar cars featured that mention things like spring rates, suspension settings and so on.

If you are uncomfortable about doing all of the car preparation yourself, talk to a company like SGR Engineering about how they could help you out.

Make sure you check with the club that your intended car is eligible to race. There is a list of those cars eligible at the back of the Stock Hatch regulations, but beware that there may be exceptions such as limited edition higher specification models. Make sure you check with the club before you spend any money. Once you have the car, get the suspension and rollcage ordered EARLY. These are the items that will probably take longest to arrive, and they are needed fairly early in the development. They are also fairly big chunks of your budget. In Stock Hatch, the right suspension will gain you more places than a couple of extra bhp at the engine, so aim to get that right first.

Plan out the build. Give yourself a deadline for each phase of construction, ending with a track test BEFORE you are due to race for the first time. Expect to be delayed. Expect suppliers to let you down, and plan round it. Speak to others who have built cars for this championship before. There are lots of little things that you may miss, like fuel tank non return valves, rear safety light, markings for towing eyes, yellow sticky tape on battery negative terminal and so on. Don't forget that you may be producing more lateral G forces than the car was originally designed for. Fuel surge may slow you down, but oil surge will blow up your engine, so aim to not let it happen.

Check everything. It IS worth it. My first test went well, I only suffered a burst water hose, but failure to check everything can result in much wasted track time.

Transport for your race car

Do not assume that just because your car is technically roadworthy that you can drive it to the circuit (unless your championship requires this). Any race car will eventually get damaged, or have some kind of failure while on the track. Getting home may prove tricky if this is your road transport. Trailers are a must in my opinion. Things to consider...
  • Trailers above a certain weight (and any car will be above this weight) must have operational brakes.
  • Single axle trailers are legal (subject to max load per axle), but are more inconvenient for loading, and more critical on weight distribution than double axle trailers.
  • 'Spectacle rack' trailers, the two metal frames over tiny wheels as seen lifting up one end of a car and towed by an AA van or whatever are not legal except for use by emergency services only. I know some people get away with it, but that's their risk.
  • The tow car must be up to the job. Most family cars will have a max tow weight that can just about manage a small trailer with a light car on it, but will not be legal for large heavy trailers.
  • Check the security of your coupling EVERY time, and check the breakaway mechanism will operate and lock the trailer handbrake. Having had a trailer part company with the tow car after only a few yards of towing (luckily) I can assure you there is no worse feeling than seeing your trailer out of the side window of your car slam into a telegraph pole. I know it has happened to a lot of people. Make sure you are not one of them.

Help on the first race day

 The first race day will be a rush. There is no getting around this. Clubs are tolerant of first timers, but the more clues you have of what to expect, the better.

In your final instructions from the club, there will be all the information you need....

  • Know your flags. Do you know the difference between a green light or a green flag waved at the startline?. How about a black and orange flag? You need to know them all - this is how people will communicate with you once you are cocooned in your little tin box.
  • Sign on. You need yourself, and your race licence, and the MOT (in Stock Hatch). The instructions will tell you where in the circuit the sign on office is. It varies.
  • Scrutineering. Your car will have basic safety checked. You will need to present your sign on slip, and your overalls, and your helmet. This is a short check, but the queue may make this a lengthy task. Give yourself a break, and be there on time. Do not be too early otherwise you will be in the way of those in previous sessions. You will be given a scrutineering card to be displayed in the rear window on the drivers side.
  • First timer's briefing. All first time drivers have to attend a first timers briefing on their first race at each circuit. Names will be checked. Be there or have a REALLY good excuse. Since you have to do this BEFORE qualifying, it is likely that this may overlap your scrutineering session, so have a friend queue up with your car for you.
  • Qualifying (practice). Your final instructions will tell you where the assembly area is (and so will the first timer briefing). Note the time you are supposed to be there, and listen for tannoy announcements. Keeping track of how far through the sessions before yours the program has got will also help. Make sure you have not left any tools loose in the car, and that the bonnet and boot are secure, and drive down to the assembly area. Go out and enjoy the session. If this is your first drive on this track, take it easy. You MUST complete 3 laps to qualify for the race, so save the heroics until a bit later.
  • Grid positions are usually announced within an hour of the qualifying session ending. The race admin office will photocopy lots of qualifying sheets, so you can see how you did, and grids so that you can have a vague idea of whether you are on the outside or inside, and who is around you - to help you get your bearings.
  • All driver's briefing. There is sometimes a briefing for all drivers before racing commences. Look on the instructions, or listen for announcements.
  • The race. Nothing more to say, by now you know the track, you have been to all the briefings, all you can do is see how it goes. Note that all other novice drivers will have a novice sticker on the back. This may make them easier to pass, as they may not be expecting you to make your move now, but equally they may not have seen you at all. Be careful.

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